Bolt Report

Kaleidoscope

Original Report

Reported By: Dustin
Reported on: 03 May 2013
Problem: Bolts
Issue: Missing
Bolt Number:  
Severity:   10  
Description: Next to last bolt failure. It was a new bolt that was spinning and never got retightened, but instead took frequent long whippers as most people skip the last bolt. This gouged out rock behind the hanger, exacerbating the spinner. Vibration eventually rattled the stud part of the 5-piece bolt free from the thread of the cone, and the stud was pulled from the hole by the outward force of the rope while lowering. This is especially a problem with newer bolts (that aren't yet fused with corrosion to the sleeve and cone) and with steep placements, where light vibration can gradually loosen the stud from the cone and cause it to fail. Simple maintenance with a 9/16" wrench or even hand-tightening would have prevented this potentially dangerous situation(i.e. decking from the top of the route in the event of bolt failure during a fall).

Developer/Admin Updates


Admin Notes

Replaced bolts 6 and 7 with stainless 5/8" Wave glue-ins, as they were rusted and spinning (or missing, in the case of bolt 7). Also replaced 4 sharp fixed aluminum + nylon draws with steel ClimbTech permadraws.